The Big Hitters Close Paris

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Chloé
Though the Chloé show had its moments it was a rough start for new designer Paulo Melim Andersson. The collection did not seem as easy or saleable as in past seasons. While pioneering a new direction is certainly admirable, for now it does mean fewer perfect wedges and baby doll dressed to covet in the fall. However Andersson still has time to make his mark with the French label.

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Lanvin
Alber Elbaz delivered his signature sequence of jewel-toned satins—breathing life into the usual suspects with innovative tailoring and details. He pairs intellectual advance with the female form beautifully and indeed his talent is the ability to create something both thoughtful and wearable.

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Louis Vuitton
While American designer Marc Jacobs is the current voice behind this French mainstay, he certainly knows how to keep it in the family. Showing his adaptability, Jacobs proved he knows the difference between American sportswear and French mode. The collection had a European air that was as subtle as the change in light.

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Vionnet
Vionnet is now a rather obscure name but it was once the premiere design house in Paris. Madeleine Vionnet became famous for mastering bias cut gowns and elegantly pin tucking silk crepe, bringing the concept of a minimal masterpiece to fashion. I would like to have seen newly appointed designer Sophia Kokosalaki bring more of that history to the collection but perhaps those references are too obvious. Kokosalaki is reinventing the line, not re-creating it outright.

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March 7, 2007. Uncategorized.

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